The decline of the French bistro

For Moureaud, things are a bit worse than that. "Nowadays, I feel like I'm working for nothing," he says. "Once I've managed to pay my staff, pay my suppliers, and pay all the obligatory charges, taxes and contributions, it's almost a relief if I manage to break even." Some months he can't pay himself anything, he says. "I'm lucky enough to have a wife who works and who makes a decent salary," he explains.

"I love what I do. I have a restaurant that people like – we've got 4.5 stars out of five from customers on the internet – but we are barely getting by. It's really stressful actually.

"It's like everything's falling apart. It is possible that I'll lose everything. After 20 years of work! Twenty years with nothing to show for it!"

I leave Moureaud to look after his insufficiently-numerous customers, and drive into the centre of the city. It was a sobering experience talking to him. It's been a while since I've interviewed someone who's trying not to cry.

Sobering as well to think that across this country known the world over for its excellent cuisine and its solid, well-rooted food culture, there are thousands in situations like his or worse. In Angers, even restaurants in prime locations are struggling.